My first Margazhi

Each December, as the year wraps up and prepares to exit, Tamil Nadu comes alive. December is the month of Margazhi (pronounced Maar-ga-li)

Margazhi is considered the most beautiful month in Tamil Nadu and begins on the 16th of December each year.

Scriptures say that Lord Krishna declared himself the month of Margazhi. This holy month sees special Pujas being performed and odes to the Gods being sung.

Scientific evidence shows that the Ozone layer is closest to Earth during this period, ensuring a generous supply of oxygen and thus aiding health. Little wonder then that early mornings see people flocking to temples for Pujas, breathing in the fresh morning air.

Music and dance programmes are held at different venues across the city. The swish of silks, the glint of gold and diamonds, and a string of fresh, fragrant mallige (jasmine) flowers in the hair are beautiful sights at the venues.

It is considered an honour to perform at Margazhi. The singing and dance performances feature novices and very well-known artistes. During performances, you can see people completely engrossed in the music and dance, their hands beating out a tattoo in sync with the music, their ears attuned, even as their heads bob up and down in time with it.

The other big attraction of Margazhi, however, is the Sabha Canteens. Every venue has its own, and everyone has their personal favourite, but the Narada Gana Sabha stands head and shoulders above the rest, being the most sought-after one.

A makeshift tent, plastic chairs and tables, waiters bustling about, and people waiting for a table staring down at you, urging you to eat faster and vacate make up a canteen.

The food is simple, with constants that become favourites. Tiffin Items (snacks) like piping-hot Vadai, crisp Ghee Dosas, Appams, or Idiyappams are must-haves. A fitting end to your meal is a Davra of steaming, strong filter coffee.

We feasted on the crunchy Vazhipoo (Banana Flower) Vadai, a new flavour for me. The Khova Jangri (Jalebi dipped in Khoya) was an unusually delicious treat. Mysore Masala Dosa, Appam with Coconut Milk and a Vegetable Kurma and Fat and Fluffy Puri’s with a simple but lip-smacking modified chole gravy followed.

We loved what we ate so much that we were at the Sabha again a day later, this time for a traditional Elai Sapad, lunch served on a Banana Leaf.

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What I realised here was that looks are deceptive: the food tastes better than it looks, and, even more surprisingly, it does not burn a hole in your pocket. A special mention to the Sambhar that, very frankly, looked unappetizing but turned out to be extremely flavorful!

I had only read and heard about Margazhi and had been waiting to experience it! I finally got an opportunity to do so at the fag end of 2017. Last-minute plans meant the day’s concert tickets were sold out.

Lesson Learnt: You’d better book your tickets in advance, if you don’t want to be disappointed.

Or then you’d better have friends in the right places, as we did. A panicked call to Subhasree Thanikachalam and she graciously arranged for tickets at short notice. When we saw which show we had tickets for, we realised that we had lucked out and how, with Bombay Jayashri being the performer of the evening.

My knowledge of classical music is zilch, yet I found myself engrossed in 2 and a half hours of beautiful singing and music performed on a gorgeously decorated stage.

Margazhi is a feast for the senses and the palate. Share on XIf you are in Chennai in December and are culturally inclined, do drop in for an experience that you will cherish.

Disclaimer: I am a Punjabi born and brought up in Bombay. I am married to a Telugu settled in Chennai. I first heard of Margazhi when I came to Chennai post marriage 7 years ago. I have wanted to visit it ever since, and I finally did. Any mistakes here are my own. Please feel free to correct me if you spot any.

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